My Sweet Venice: Pasticceria Chiusso
So far, I've mainly described restaurants and eateries, but obviously I can't afford to eat out everyday! Most days I eat at home and I image that if you are visiting, you might just want something small for lunch and save your appetite (and money!) for dinner.
Because I work from home, I really need to get out, see people and enjoy some fresh air! Thus I tend to have about 2 or 3 breaks everyday. When I have a lot of work to do, I go to an old style artisanal pastry shop close to my house called Pasticceria Chiusso.
I shouldn't be saying this, but I had to search for the name on Google...I have always known this place as da Pierino, the name of the owner...
Don't expect anything fancy, because it isn't. Still, I really like it: no crowds here, just me (possibly a friend), a nice espresso and a yummy pastry.
It's a family run business and everything is homemade. I particularly like their croissants, in fact Vittorio gets them for our Sunday breakfast nearly every week. The ladies behind the counter are friendly and enjoy a nice chat and this is the sort of place that makes me feel Venice is actually a normal city. I suppose it's the same feeling Linus felt towards his security blanket.
We sometimes stop here for a small aperitif before going home: a "pallina" and a savoury treat, usually a pizzetta or a salatino stuffed with spinach and ricotta.
If you are wondering what a "pallina" is, well... let me explain: it's something you can drink only in Venice and -nowadays- 99% of the bars don't make it (because it's not worth it from the economic point of view). So, what is it? It's simply a spritz, just served in a 10ml glass (the same one used for house wine) that costs 1 euro... I'm sure we've already discussed how bold Venetians are when it comes to alcohol. The tradition of serving these small glasses is due to the fact that we go from one osteria to the other, and if we drank a whole spritz in every place...I don't know about you but I would have to go to bed!!! So this is why only in Venice people ask for a birrino (small beer) or an ombra (house wine), both served in a 10ml glass.
Anyway, returning to Pasticceria Chiusso I like the friendly and homey atmosphere of the place and the simple taste of homemade cakes. If I'm alone, I sometimes bring a magazine and skim through the pictures while sipping a coffee and recharging my batteries. Today's break was something like this:
Caffeine and sugar. Maybe not great for my diet...but great for my brain!
As you might have understood by now, I have a favorite thing in every place and in Pasticceria Chiusso it's the pastry itself: buttery (but not greasy) and slightly crunchy, crumbly I'd say. This one had custard and marmalade. Delicious and comforting.
Pasticceria Chiusso is located close to the absolutely worth seeing Greci's Church and if you are in the Biennale area it's a great option for a quick snack and a drink. Really nice pastries at excellent prices.
I know many of you will be visiting the Biennale, so stay tuned because I'm going to cover lots of different options in the area! Talk to you soon!
Address: Salizzada dei Greci, 3306, 30122 Venezia
Phone: +39 041 523 1611